North farm walkthrough part III: the bathroom

North Farm Walkthrough Part 3: The Bathroom

Design Notes

• Walls: Vermicule wallpaper by Pierre Frey
• Woodwork: Stock 37 by Little Greene
• Wall light fitting: Mini L bracket wall light by Hector Finch
• Wall light shade: Hexagonal Papyrus Shade by Robert Kime
• Wooden chair: unknown junk shop
• Mirror: Battersea Antiques Fair
• Rag rug: Battersea Antiques Fair
• White ceramic hooks: Tinsmiths
• Plant (shown in course footage): alpine strawberry

North Farm Walkthrough Part 3: The Shower Room

Design Notes

• Walls: Squiggle Green paper by John Fowler
• Woodwork: Stock 37 by Little Greene
• Tiles: Paintbox Bone by Mandarin Stone
• Sink & tap: Burlington
• Shower Tray: Lapicida

Margot's Bathroom

Design Notes

• Walls: Pommes de Pin wallpaper in céladon from Pierre Frey
• Woodwork: Tongue & groove walls 'Leather II' by Paint & Paper
• Wall shades: Baby scallop shades by Matilda Goad

How to Fit Tongue-and-Groove Wall Panelling

An elegant and durable panelling option is tongue-and-groove. You can paint it or stain it, or even leave the grooves unfinished. Tongue-and-groove panelling is constructed of planks with a little tongue along one edge and a corresponding groove along with the other. The tongue fits perfectly into the groove of the adjacent plank.

Fitting Battens for Tongue-and-Groove

1. Cut the tongue-and-groove panelling to fit the length of the wall you wish to panel. Determine the panelling's height and cut each plank to length. Mark the height of one of the cut boards on the wall with a pencil. If there is no skirting, mark the lower batten location around 50mm from the floor to allow air to circulate.

1. Draw horizontal lines across the wall with a spirit level, connecting the marks at the three batten levels.

1. Drill the battens 50mm from either end and at 400mm intervals between them. Then, with a bradawl, mark the drill points on the wall for each batten. Before you drill, be sure there are no concealed pipes or cables behind the fixing positions.

Attaching Tongue-and-Groove Panelling

1. Begin by sanding any rough edges on the planks' ends. Start from the left and level with the top batten while holding the first plank in place (tongue-side on the right). Then, nail a panel pin into the batten through the top left-hand side of the plank face.

1. Before attaching the plank to the remaining battens, use a spirit level to ensure it is vertical. To keep the panelling vertical, repeat this process every three or four boards.

1. Holding a pin with long-nosed pliers, hammer it at an angle through the tongue's corner into the batten behind it to 'secret nail' the boards. This should be repeated for each batten.

1. Sink the pinheads below the surface of the plank using a nail punch and hammer. Then slot the next plank into place, with its groove covering the tongue of the previous one. Repeat this process for each plank until you reach the end of the wall. Cut the last plank to fit, and nail through the face into the battens. If you're panelling the next wall too, leave a 3mm gap between the last plank and the wall at the corner. Butt the grooved edge of the first plank on the adjoining wall against this last plank, and nail it through the face into the battens.

1. Cut the capping to match the panelling's top edge. Afterwards, apply wood glue to the panelling, attach the capping, and let it cure.

1. Cut a length of skirting to fit and use panel pins to secure it to the bottom of the panelling.

Further Information

For further information about fitting wall panels visit Diy.com