Sewing techniques

Sewing Techniques

An introduction to hand sewing techniques that you will need to use throughout this course.

Slip Stitch

Often used to secure a folded hem neatly.

• Begin with a long length of your extra-strong thread, with a single knot in the end with the tail trimmed off. Thread your needle.
• Use your needle to poke the thread through the very top of the fold.
• Pick up one tiny thread of your face fabric with your needle and pull the needle through.
• Insert the needle again into the very top of the fold and bring it out about 1cm along the fold, then pull it tight.
• Now, work along inserting the needle, picking up a tiny thread of the face fabric and bringing it out approximately 1cm along the fold, and pulling each stitch tight.

Mitred Corner

Used to minimise bulk in the corner of your curtain.

• Firstly, insert a lead penny weight using a strong thread, only picking up singular threads from the face fabric as you go. Repeat a number of times to get it really secure.
• Taking your pre-pressed bottom hem, fold the corner into the centre of the fabric. Ensure the pressed folds line up on either side, and pin to keep in place.
• Next, take your bottom hem and fold it along the pressed line. Take out your pin, and resecure it.
• Do the same with your side hem.
• Use a slip stitch to join the folds together to form your mitred corner.

Herringbone Stitch

Used to secure a raw edge to make the later stages easier.

• Insert the needle about 1cm away from the edge and catch a singular thread of your face fabric, then pull your needle through.
• Next, insert the needle a little way along and 1cm down from the edge, catching another thread and pulling your needle through.
• Work along, and you will see a zigzag herringbone shape start to form.

Locking Stitch

Used to attach the lining and the face fabric along the joining hems.

• Line up the joining hems.
• Begin the stitch above the top of the bottom hem and insert a couple of anchor stitches so that it's really secure.
• Insert the needle about 10cm up and pull through until a large semicircle is formed by the thread. Go through the semicircle with your needle and pull loosely, but not tight, as you want to allow for movement.

Chain Stitch

Used to secure the bottom of your lining to the bottom of your face fabric.

• For this stitch, you need to double up the thread, and knot the two pieces together at the bottom.
• Start on the lining and create an anchor stitch.
• Insert the needle and create a loop of thread that you can put your hand into.
• Use the hand that's holding the loop open to catch the thread attached to your needle halfway, and pull tight. Repeat to create a chain that's around 1.5 inches long.
• Once the chain is long enough, pass the needle through the loop to create a knot.
• Now, join the chain to the corresponding area of the face fabric with an anchor stitch that only goes through the bottom hem and does not go through the front of the fabric.