Why mulch?

Why Mulch?

As well as using our own compost in the cutting garden, we also use a lot of green waste from our local council.

If you are considering using council supplied green waste in your own garden though, there are a few things you need to consider. In recent years there has been a problem with a residual amount of a broad spectrum herbicide called Aminopyralid being present in some green waste. This widely used herbicide is used to kill ragwort in fields and meadows and is often used in stables. The problem with Aminopyralid is that even when it's been through the digestive system of a horse it will still be active for three more years.

So even if you use farmyard manure that is labelled organic, you may still find this herbicide is present.

After losing a whole dahlia patch to infected green waste, we now test everything that is brought onto the farm.

The Broad Bean Test

We buy our green waste in bulk, often in tonne bags. But before we use any of it in our garden, we'll sow some broad bean seeds in it first.

If the broad beans germinate and look normal then we know the green waste is safe to use, but if they shrivelled or with black markings on their leaves, then we know the green waste is infected and we know not to spread it on the garden

How to Apply Mulch

The key thing to remember when applying mulch is that you want to lay down a layer thick enough to suppress weeds and prevent water evaporation. This means you need to apply at least a two-inch layer to your beds.

One thing to look out for is that sometimes green waste can form a crust on your bed. So to make sure any water can penetrate, make sure to break this crust up with your trowel from time to time.

How and Why to Apply Grit

I use grit in my beds to create paths, but it also acts as a natural weed suppressant and is useful in heavy clay soil as it helps with soil drainage, plus it looks good too.