An Expert Guide to Planting Design

The boundary hedge

with DAN PEARSON — Acclaimed naturalistic landscape designer. Multiple Chelsea Gold Medal Winner. OBE.

Lesson 27 of 31

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Hedges are a key structural element of any garden. Dan discusses the functionality of a hedge, his considerations when choosing what to use, and some practical aspects of siting a hedge.

From the Lesson Workbook

The Boundary Edge

Hedges are a key structural element of any garden. In this chapter, I'll discuss the functionality of a hedge, my considerations when choosing what species to use, and some practical aspects of siting a hedge.

On the garden's boundary with the lane was an old, broken-down mixed native hedge. It's mostly hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), with some hazel (Coryllus avellana) and small-leaved elm (Ulmus minor subsp. minor). This deciduous, mixed British native hedge feels right in this naturalistic setting.

I've spent some time rejuvenating this hedge so that it's a good and dynamic habitat:

  • I've added wild privet (Ligustrum vulgare) and scented sweet briar roses (Rosa rubiginosa).
  • I've underplanted it with things that enjoy that habitat, such as snowdrops and primroses.

This hedge feels very much part of the landscape and has become a wonderful habitat – birds can forage as we don't cut it until after all the berries have dropped in autumn, and it provides cover in winter. Of course, it also forms a backdrop for the planting as well as separation from the lane.

The Functionality of Hedges

Whether evergreen or deciduous, hedges are very useful structural building blocks in a garden.

In this countryside setting, I've only used natives in my hedge, so that it blends in with the landscape and provides the best habitat for local biodiversity. It forms a nice restful backdrop to the garden.

I've got a very simple mown path running alongside the hedge. I don't tend to use much mown grass, because I prefer to have biodiverse meadow.

  • I don't use any chemicals on this grass, so it's full of wild plants. I'm not worried about it being imperfect, as this is what feels right with this naturalistic setting.

On this very sunny site, I've provided some shade by planting trees at the top of the garden, so that the walk along the hedge is in dappled shade.

  • One tree I like to use is an ornamental hawthorn called Crataegus coccinea – this has lovely creamy flowers in late spring, followed by large red berries and a tremendous autumn colour. Quite fast-growing, this provides shade and is somewhere birds like to be.

It's important to get these structural elements into a garden early on, and it's really worth taking time to consider where you want them. Investing thought into your structural elements will mean that as they start to mature, they will immediately make an impact on the rest of the garden that follows.

  • This hedge for instance is not only a structural spine running through the garden, but is also a useful piece of shelter that provides a microclimate for the rest of the planting.

These structural hedges and trees are long-term investments that are worth getting right in terms of where they are, what they are and why they're there.

Choosing a Hedge

There are many different hedges you can use depending on what mood you want. Yew (Taxus baccata) for instance, which is also a British native, makes a wonderful hedge:

  • It's relatively slow-growing, so only needs to be cut once at the end of the summer,
  • It's very versatile, and can be cut into many shapes,
  • It provides year-round consistency and a beautiful dark green backdrop to planting.

Holly (Ilex aquifolium) can also be used in a similar way.

I tend not to use fast-growing hedges, such as non-native privet or Lonicera nitida, because you have to cut these twice a year. This isn't what I'd aim for in a naturalistic garden – it causes more disturbance to wildlife, and I also prefer to reserve my energy for other things.

So a hedge that grows quite slowly and only needs cutting once a year is the aim. We cut ours at the very end of the season, once the leaves have dropped and the birds have had a chance to take the berries.

Accommodating a Hedge

Hedges can be hungry, which is why I've put a grass path alongside mine. The root system would have a big impact on the planting if I were to plant right up to the hedge.

  • Think about the vigour of your hedges, and where you put the planting relative to them.
  • For any hedge, you also need to consider how and when you're going to cut it.
  • It's worth considering a maintenance strip alongside the hedge to separate it from the planting, which helps with access and also that issue of the hungry root zone.

So when placing your hedges and then the planting, it's always worth thinking about the practicalities of how you're going to manage those hedges.

Plant Directory

Crataegus monogyna

Coryllus avellana

Ulmus minor subsp. Minor

Ligustrum vulgare

Rosa rubiginosa

Morus nigra

Crataegus coccinea

Taxus baccata

Ilex aquifolium

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Dan Pearson

Your Instructor

Dan Pearson

Acclaimed naturalistic landscape designer. Multiple Chelsea Gold Medal Winner. OBE.

British landscape designer, horticulturalist and writer Dan Pearson OBE, has been designing award-winning gardens since 1987. His naturalistic use of plants, light-handed approach to design and deep-rooted horticultural knowledge has made him one of the most celebrated and innovative gardeners working today. Dan trained in horticulture at Wisley and Kew, before starting his garden and landscape design practice in 1987. In 2015, his show garden for Chatsworth and Laurent Perrier was awarded a Gold Medal and Best Show Garden at the Chelsea Flower Show. In 2014 Dan was appointed an advisor to the National Trust at Sissinghurst Castle. For over 20 years Dan has written regular gardening columns, with his work a staple of The Observer, and has written a number of best-selling gardening books.

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